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| Interesting
Darkroom and Hobby Tips |
Film
processing
Proper film removal from
the camera after its use
is important to avoid
loosing your precious
photos.
For best
results process your film
as soon as possible after
use.
Store unused film in a
cool dry place.
Light will have an effect
on your film - even low
speed film.
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What
is multiple filter
printing?
Multiple filter printing
is also commonly called
split grading and is
useful to extend the
tonal range in your black
and white prints, without
increasing contrast.
With this technique two
(or more) filters are
used to make a single
multigrade print. The
greater the difference in
filter grades, the
greater the tonal
separation.
This is a very effective
technique for negatives
that need more tonal
separation.
Start with a very low
contrast filter such as a
#0 or #1 to get the best
midtones then use a high
contrast filter such as a
#5 to emphasize the
shadows.
|
What
is developer incorporated
emulsion black &
white paper?
Developer incorporated
papers have a developer
agent incorporated in the
emulsion and are
generally for use in
processing machines.
Works like a 2 part
developer - with part A
incorporated into the
emulsion of the paper and
part B is in the
processor.
This speeds up
processing, these papers
are used mainly in
commercial labs and
newspapers.
Kodak Kodabrome II is one
of the more common
papers. The II in the
papers name denotes that
the paper has a developer
incorporated in it
emulsion
Developer incorporated
papers were originally
designed for use in an
activator solution, e.g.
Kodak Royalprint
Processor, Ektamatic,
Spiratone stabilization
processors.
Non-developer
incorporated emulsion
papers e.g. Deluxe in
Ilford RC, are better
suited for conventional
tray processing - they
generally continue
developing longer thus
allowing visual
processing control.
Non-developer
incorporated emulsion
papers are considered by
Ilford to be archival and
usable for the finest
prints for gallery work.
|
What
is the Zone System?
Briefly - your camera's
meter will give you the
reading for average gray
(Zone V).
If you want white (Zone
I), you will have to open
the aperture or use a
longer time.
If you want black (Zone
IX) you will have to
close the aperture or use
a shorter shutter time.
The Zone system is a
method of correlating the
exposure range of your
subject with the gray
scale of a black &
white print.
If you point the meter at
something very bright,
the meter thinks its
looking at mid gray and
if you were to shoot at
the indicated exposure,
that white object would
print at mid gray - so,
you need adjust your
exposure so that white
comes out white.
Each zone of the Zone
system has a gray value.
White with detail is said
to be at Zone VIII.
Each Zone also equals one
f-stop of change from the
next or previous zone.
To get that white object
at Zone VIII, knowing
that the meter has placed
it at Zone V, you need to
open your lens 3 zones
(zone V up to Zone VIII)
i.e. 3 stops.
When you use a
reflectance meter (such
as a spot meter or the
meter inside a camera),
whatever you point the
meter at in the subject
is put at mid gray (Zone
V) by the meter.
Fungal
growth and your lens
In its early stages,
fungal growth seems to
have no effect on your
photos.
Once on the glass surface
the fungal mesh will
decrease image
brightness, increase
flare.
In its final stages, the
lens surface may become
etched, thus reducing
image sharpness.
The lens will need to be
replaced
Preventing fungus
growth in your lens.
With regular
exposure to direct
sunlight, the UV rays in
sunlight actually kills
any fungus growing on
your lens, but wont clean
existing damage.
Keep your lenses
in a dry, cool place. If
you use your equipment in
damp environments, let it
dry as soon as you return
to a drier room.
Never leave your
equipment in a closed
(splashproof) camera bag.
- Leather lens cases are
known to be especially
bad, because leather is a
natural product where
fungi can grow before
they proceed on to the
lens. Synthetic materials
are better, but there are
no guarantee.s
If you store the
equipment in a sealed
case, adding a small bag
of silica gel or other
desiccant may help -
these should be replaced
or oven dried once
saturated.
Automatic dryer cabinets
that regulate the
internal humidity down to
about 45% are OK.
Professional lens
cleaning to remove the
fungal growth is a
service routinely offered
by camera repair shops.
The best way to deal with
fungus is to avoid it.
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